PSU wires burnt

As far as the case goes the leds in the front panel would be blown also I would guess.
Means a lot of work again if you find eventually the case has to be changed also.

 

Is there anyone that does test to see if the case would be properly grounded?

 

If your house is properly earthed you shouldn't have any grounding issues
I'm talking about sustained damage to the front panel of your case most likely.
Newegg have cases from $21.99

 

I see what ya mean. The house is grounded fine. Il let him know what the deal is and he can decide what he wants to do. not my money lol

 

OK, this is a total re-write of my last post right above this one... #25 I believe. If a power that is could please delete that one I would appreciate. I took too long with the edit... Oh, also feel free to edit this post to get rid of the reference to the other.
EDIT Post removed. DSTM
-------------------------- New post ---------------------------

You could test the LEDs on the case with any 5 volt source buy why take the chance? Even if the LEDs work the case could still have issues. You are going to spend at least a few hundred dollars to replace components. Why risk that investment for a case that can be replaced cheaply as DSTM pointed out. As an added note on this you MIGHT want to spend a bit more on a case if there is any concern about the system being quiet. While fully functional cheaper cases tend to be made with thinner framework. This can cause harmonics which boils down to a cheaper case can make for a louder system. As a hint this can often be overcome with thin cardboard or folded paper put in the right places.

As a note I believe it was mentioned that some of the components were still under warranty. Odds are that the manufacturers are going to want those components returned to them before they are replaced. I'm sad to say that it is possible that the warranty may not cover such things as power surges. Trust me, they WILL know if the damage was caused by a surge unless they don't bother to check the component. That is a possibility as it is sometimes cheaper to just replace the part than to expend the man-hour cost to test. There is also the possibility that they may test and find nothing wrong. In that case you still win as you find that the component is safe to use for the cost of shipping.

Oh, what I meant by a potential grounding issue with the case would be heat caused. Trust me in that with the damage to the main connection to the mother board there was a LOT of heat generated even if only for a moment. My big concern would be if there was any sort of flange or other structural case element in the area. If so the heat could warp any such feature in a heartbeat as such things are usually pretty thin. If any such part was warped it is not impossible that it could now come in contact with the mother board causing a short. Is this likely? Not really... but it IS a possibility. Like I said before, I would trust nothing from a system that took this kind of hit.

OK... I hope that DSTM and I have convinced you to get a new case. Now let's look at the power supply. I try to avoid recommending brands as a lot of that is just personal preference. In fact this is only the second time since I joined here (I think) that I will recommend a brand. When it comes to a power supply for a desktop I will use nothing but Antec. I have seen cases where people have spent a LOT of money on other components but skimped on the power supply. This is a drastic mistake! The power supply is the heart of the system, it pumps the blood; electrons. If it is not steady and consistent it can drastically reduce the life of the system. Even if not Antec, go with a modular power supply. A modular power supply is one that has sockets into which you plug the needed cables. The reason that I like these is that you only end up with wires that you need. This makes it easier to maintain a good air flow through the case.

Sorry that this post is so long but hardware is my thing and I am very set in my ways on the subject...

 

Edit to add, I had not seen Jaylachs post, so this is in addition and as an extension of all he says.

Hum, not too sure as we don't as yet know which case was used originally, however if the old case is all metal apart from outer decorative bezels etc. Providing the new power supply is supplied with a three core cable or connector with a grounding or earth pin, and also providing there is a good grounding or earth connection at the wall socket the case may be safe to re-use.

The important thing is to ensure there is a good ground connection all the way through as it can be possible for the wall socket to have a bad connection. A reputable and qualified electrician will be needed to ensure that as it is a major safety issue any way, especially if it proves that there is a poor connection at the wall socket.

Regardless of all that though, if you feel unsure about the case, then by all means obtain a new one, safety of all people involved is paramount as without a good ground or earth connection, electric shock is a major hazard as well as possibly a fire one too.

 

Ok so i let my nephew know all these things. Hes kinda depressed so it goes in 1 ear and out the other. All I can say is you can bring a horse to water but cant make it drink so he can do what he wants with his next machine. Im just trying to help him out and learn myself. I brought down all the boxes his stuff came in and im gonna type it out and see if it makes sense to you guys.

Intel inside core i3
2cores/ 4-way multitask processing
intel hyper-threading technology
intel smart cache technology
integrated memory controller
supporst two-channel ddr3 memory
Intel HD graphics 4000

Geforce GTX 600 Ti
450 watt or greater power supply with a minimum of 24 amps on the +12 volt rail.
PCI express PCI express 2.0 or PCI express 3.0 compliant motherboard with one graphics slot.
Two 6-pin PCI Express power connectors or four available hard disk power connectors
Microsoft Windows 8/7/vista/xp
Minimum system power requirement based on a PC configured with an Intel core i7 3.2GHz processor

ASRock z75 Pro 3
Supports 3rd and 2nd Generation Intel Core i7/ i5/ i3 in LGA1155 Package
Supports Dual Channel DDR3 2800+ (OC). 1 PCIE 3.0 x 16 slot
Supports AMD Quad CrossfireX
Supports C.C.O. (Combo cooler Option)
Multi-VGA Output: D-Sub, HDMI

WD Blue Desktop Hard Drive
Sata/64MB Cache

There are a bunch of number and stuff on here so I dont even know what it means so I wont type it out. If you have a question then feel free to ask.

Corsair CX 600
Auto-switching circuitry provides univeral AC input from 100v-240v
Supports ATX12V 2.3 and EPS12V 2.91 standards and is backward compatible with ATX12V 2.2 and 2.01 systems
AC INPUT RATING
AC Input: 100V-240V
Current:10A-5A
Frequency:47Hz-63Hz

DC OUTPUT Rating
DC Output +3.3v +5v +12v -12v +5Vsb
Max Load 25A 25A 46A 0.8A 3A

130w for 3.3v and 25A... 130 for +5Aand 25A 552w for +12v and 46A....9.6W for -12v and 0.8A.... 15w for +5Vsb and 3A
Total Power 600w

The case is a cooler master 912 HAF
Power supply type ATX PS2/EPS 12v (Optional)

I might have missed some things, im not sure. But if you guys can look over these specs and tell me what ya thing.
Typing this out I did notice 1 thing off which I copy and pasted below. Would that make a difference?
Minimum system power requirement based on a PC configured with an Intel core i7 3.2GHz processor
Intel inside core i3

 

Hi Nathan. This was a good middle of the road Computer. As far as the specs go I wouldn't change a thing.
Just rebuild and the chance of another burnout like this is very rare.

 

Cool. I must add which I forgot to put in the big post is that he has 2 monitors running on the computer at the same time. Is that healthy for the computer. Hes playing his game on one screen and has his friends list on the other. I never seen that in my life.

 

It is common practice to run dual monitors. I have dual monitors.
The only thing I would do is buy a cheap power point checker and test the power point.
All you do is plug it in the power point and the lights light up and tell you if it's OK.
Much cheaper than getting an Electrician to test for you.

 

Do you mean check wall outlet or power splitter he has?