PC either won't boot or delayed boot after Windows 8 factory restore

You don't need another cpu cooler. Case fans in towers should be sufficient for your use. You will neeed cpu grease
when you change the motherboard so order that, yes.

 

Good. How would you suggest that I remove/clear off the thermal paste that's already dried up on the CPU?

 

Alcohol (denatured) works very well with a Q-tip.

 

I use my Wife's nail polish remover.

 

All the above are fine.

 

Thank you guys very much for all of this information. Would you guys recommend ordering from TigerDirect? I haven't considered it until I realized that the same case that I am considering is way cheaper there than any store price listed on PCPartPicker.

Here is my list so far: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/bdmG8d

 

I buy a lot from Tiger Direct, a great resource.

 

This is my first time doing a build. Wish me luck guys. I must admit that I am nervous about this.

I decided to order from Newegg.
-I'm going to use the i7 3770 as the CPU, and the optical drive is fine as well.
- Mobo: GIGABYTE GA-B75M-D3H
- Memory: HyperX Savage 4GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) (2 of them, I'm going to order some more once I get this system up and running)
- Case: Cooler Master N200 (I did read some reviews that were cause for some concern, but I think I'll figure it out)
- PSU: EVGA 500w (I may upgrade this in a month or two once I figure in all of my USB peripherals)

I also ordered some Arctic Silver Articlean Thermal material remover and Arctic Silver 5 High-Density thermal compound. I also thought it would be a good idea to cover the motherboard with the AIG 3 year accidental damage replacement plan.

One problem: I THINK I should've ordered a new CPU fan anyway. Upon further investigating my current heatsink/fan combo, it's an Acer OEM model. From comparing the position of the screws to the pictures of the motherboard, it should fit. BUT: The Acer mobo in the Gateway has the "screw sockets" (I forget what they're called) connected to the motherboard and I'm not sure if I can remove those. I haven't tried yet.

Luckily, I think the computer store that told me my CPU tested fine sells computer parts and they may have what I need.

 

After you remove the old motherboard look underneath the board as likely there is a piece that fits from under the board and come up thorough it so you can screw in the hsf
and it self tightens. If not you can buy the stock hsf for that cpu for $10-15 and that is all toy would really need. If I could get you to move to the 550 watt EVGA psu, that one is better made
when I recommended the 500 watt before I failed to notice the maker which isn't great. Everything else sounds fine.

 

Thank you, again. After some fiddling, I was able to remove the mounting tray from the back of the motherboard. I did this after realizing that it was simply taped to the back of the mobo. So I'm good to go there.

However, I have a question about the Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste. I've read some pretty concerning reviews about it on a few different sites. The most concerning, besides the CPU being pretty high upon using it, is that....it literally has GLUED some users heatsink and processor together. To the point that when they tried to remove the HSF, it snatched the CPU from the socket and damaged it. Others say it's not really appropriate for quad core CPUs.

Is this something I should be concerned about? I think the computer repair shop I went to last week may carry thermal paste (in fact, I'm sure they do) so I'm wondering if I should look over their selection.

 

Arctic Silver 5 is among the best if not the best. Anytime the hsf is left too long and the grease dries out that always is a possibility but it is a possibility with any cpu grease and you need to be really careful if you see it is sticking and carefully pry it out. Just pulling them apart should not damage anything but if you lose control and the cpu gets out of your hand well then anything can happen.

 

Okay. Started building this morning and everything is going great! Two questions:

1. My motherboard of choice is the Gigabyte B75M-D3H. From looking at the bios when I booted up the system (YAY!!!), the CPU temperature is between 40-45 degrees C. However, my CPU fan (from the previous computer) runs a bit faster (and thus louder) compared to my previous computer at around the same temperature. Should there be a fan control and should I be concerned with this?

2. I'm trying to find where to plug the AC97. There's not a label for it on the motherboard, but from Googling, it's possible to hook up on my motherboard.

 

What exactly are you meaning by the term "AC97"?
AC97 was an old standard for sound systems in the day of XP and was usually built into the motherboard. More modern built motherboards us a HD type sound system as the built in sound chips.

Secondly, from boot up and nothing in use or running, that temperature seems a little high. Please check that the CPU heat paste has just enough to cover the connection area between the heat sink and the CPU chip, also make sure all the old paste has been removed and that once refitted that the heat sink is square and fully flat onto the CPU chip.

Nev.

 

Well, the case has a plug labeled "AC97" inside, leading to the front audio panel. There's also an HD Audio plug a few inches away on the same cord. Should I only use the HD Audio?

I will check the thermal paste. I wanted to ask though: I've actually read (a few times) that the CPU will run hotter in EFI BIOS than in Windows (this new motherboard has EFI Bios). Do you know if there is any merit to this?

What I did notice is that the CPU temp in EFI bios starts off at 39 C for the first few seconds upon entering the bios then it fluctuates up to 45 C . To test this, I exited BIOS and re-entered to the same results.

 

Hi Vern.
Use the "HD Audio" plug.
Watch a utube video how to apply heatsink paste correctly.
As far as I/O connections the "-P LED" (ground) always goes to the right looking at the Motherboard
The Motherboard will have it printed in very small print.
Temps are normally in Celsius.
Don't play in the Bios unless you are familiar.
This is a typical I/O connection. Notice how the "Ground" (-) always connects to the right as I said.
Hope this helps.

 

Thanks Dougie. I just came here to edit my post after consulting the manual, it seemed like I should only use the HD audio.

I actually watched several videos on how to correctly apply paste before I started building. Both Intel and Arctic's websites suggested using the line method for the i7, which is what I did. Should I have done the Pea Method instead? I don't think I put too much paste on the CPU, and I don't think I put too little. From reading online, EFI Bios puts a load on the CPU, which is probably why the HSF is running pretty hard, hence the higher temperatures. (The same exact fan would run hard on my old PC when there was a load on the CPU). However, I'm very interested in your guys' opinions on this as you guys have been the most helpful bunch I've encountered across several websites.

I just don't want to risk messing something up by re-applying the thermal paste if these temps are actually normal in my situation. If I take off the HSF to check the paste, I'd have to reapply the paste, correct?

 

Success! I finally finished it about a half hour ago (well, mostly) after a few hours of trial and error. I ran my old Windows installation, but I'm buying Windows 10 tomorrow (I'm going to have to pay for it anyway since I restored back to Windows 8) and doing a clean install. The CPU fan was running fine, so the temps may have been fine but I'll check that tomorrow morning, too. I did run into a IQRL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL BSOD while attempting to shut down upon initial boot, but that may be down to either

A. I had not yet installed the drivers (any of them) for the new mobo in the short time it was powered on.
B. The new memory I bought is possibly faulty. I have experienced IQRL errors on past computers and it was always the RAM that was causing it, each time the RAM was from the Kingston brand. Literally. This RAM is Kingston's Hyper Savage.

Hopefully I can get that figured out.

I thank you all for helping me through this ordeal. It was a learning experienced and I actually learned more than I already knew about building computers.

 

Your Welcome.
I have Windows10 and personally I wouldn't buy Windows10.
I would stay with what you have at the moment.
It will do everything you want.

 

I actually liked Windows 10 a lot before I had the big ordeal. I wasn't a big fan of Windows 8. I didn't mind it, but I wasn't crazy about it. Windows 7 was absolutely great but that's too outdated for my purposes (and I actually still have a valid Windows 7 retail license but don't want to waste that with the Windows 10 upgrade.)

For my purposes, I use a lot of music production software.....so it's kind of for the best that I stay updated.