Advice Suggestions for New Video Editing PC

Actually I think I might go with the Nvidia 1660 Super. Prices aren't too bad for this card on ebay ($500 or so and even a couple pre owned for around $300) and this one has 6GB of Vram.

Now I just need to find a motherboard for this stuff.

 

I can get a package deal on Best Buy for a Core i7-11700K 11th Gen and a MSI MPG Z590 for $750. Never had an MSI mobo before, but the reviews seem pretty good.

I'm assuming graphic cards can go on any mobo.

 

FD makes several good mid-tower cases. My next one was going to be the Define R7 because it is the latest generation of my R4 which I like so much. But they also have a Define 7 Compact that looks really interesting to me. A lot of times the compact versions of products have fewer features but the Define 7 Compact seems to still have them all. For example, it still have the sound-dampening lining which works so well on the R4 and R7. This is important for me because hate fan noise.

I definitely want a mid-tower but don't need a huge one because I don't need the extra space for an extra long graphics card, or support for 18 drives! I also don't need support for an EATX motherboard. The Compact supports up to a standard size, "full" ATX motherboard - which is perfect for me (and most users).

Smaller cases may look nice and certainly take up less room. But they typically offer fewer cooling options and often don't support the preferred larger 140mm fans. Larger fans are preferred because they move much more air but at a slower rotation speed. And slower speeds mean less fan noise and that's good because I hate fan noise! The restricted space of smaller cases also make it difficult to assemble components and work in the computer case because I can't see what I am doing and have my hands in there at the same time.

And again, I really like and appreciate the classic conservative looks of [most] FD cases. I don't go for fancy facades. When I look at this Cooler Master case, for example, while it has nice specs and I am sure is well built, what I see is a bunch of cracks and crevices that surely will attract hard-to-clean dust. Another problem with fancy facades, IMO, is they are faddish. And like all fads, they go out of style - especially after the novelty wears off.

And while I realize it is all the rage these days, I also don't like flashy lights with my case. I expect my cases to sit discretely and discreetly off to the side and NEVER draw attention to themselves. After all, it is what's happening on my monitors that matter. I don't need or want my case causing distractions. Yeah, eventually I am sure folks learn to ignore the lights, but then what purpose do they serve if they are constantly ignored? And more importantly, fancy RGB lighting does nothing for performance, consumes some energy, generates some heat, and does nothing for performance (worth repeating).

I do like a side window however - but not to gaze in wonder at the innards. A side windows makes periodic visual inspections for dust build-up and spinning fans simple. With a solid side panel, you have to remove the panel just to look inside.

The solid front panel door on the R7 and 7 Compact look great IMO, swings either way, which is really nice, and surprisingly, the vents along the side allow plenty of cool air in through the large filter behind the door. And the door is lined with sound deadening material which is great since, did I mention I really hate fan noise?

As for dust build-up, even with quality filters, dust will eventually build up inside - though it might take a couple years instead of months - depending on your local environment and the number of pets and rug rats running around stirring up dust. Removable, washable filters are an absolute must.

 

As for cases I'm kind of partial to this one by NZXT.

 

So for right now I've lined up the following items for my new video editing rig:

• Mobo: MSI MPG Z590

• CPU: Core i7-10700 10th Generation 8-Core 2.9 GHz

• RAM: CORSAIR VENGEANCE RGB PRO SL 32GB (2x16GB) DDR4 3600

• PSU: CORSAIR - RM Series 750W ATX12V 2.52/EPS12V 2.92 80 Plus Gold

• Case: NZXT - H510i Compact ATX Mid-Tower Case

Cost for the above items is $1,035.

As for a video card I'm looking at a EVGA NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1660 Super (6GB GDDR6 PCI Express 3.0) for $500+ on eBay.

Still need a monitor, but so far it's around $1,600 for the main stuff. Compared to spending that amount (or more) for a prebuilt I'd say doing it this way would be better.

 

I forgot I need hard drive. So I got the Samsung 870 EVO 1TB SSD. So now the updated price is $1,155. I also found a ASUS NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1660 SUPER for $300.

 

I am glad you got a SSD instead of a hard drive. SSDs are the only way to go IMO.

 

Is a 750W psu good enough? I was looking at a 850W, but that seemed like overkill for me.

 

I was checking on the CPUs. My original choice is the Core i7 10700, but they also have an unlocked version. The unlocked version does not come with a cooler and I'm assuming because you can overclock it you would want a better cooling solution. They also have the i7 11700 which is the 11th Gen. The motherboard I was looking at is a MSI MPG Z590, which supports both 10 and 11th Gen processors. I'm wondering if I should splurge and get the 11th Gen version, just in the sense of future proofing the PC for a while?

I'm focusing on a white/black color scheme for the PC. I wasn't thinking of this at first until I saw the Fractal Design Meshify C case (in white) and the Corsair RMX RM750x which is also white and comes with these all white modular cables. Next I picked the Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro SL 32GB DDR4 3600 for the memory, becuase these are also white and they look really cool (the reviews are also pretty good).

Since I'm going with this color scheme and I will need a better cooling option if I get the unlocked 11th gen I'm liking this Corsair Hydro H100i RGB Platinum SE. I've never had a water cooling system in a PC so I'm excited to try this out and see how it all works. It should all look pretty cool when I'm done.

And IJAC, thanks for the link to the spec sheet on that Geforce 1660 Super

 

Even 750W is overkill. I always recommend using a good PSU calculator so you don't have to guess, pull arbitrary numbers out of the air, or (to do it properly) visit each component's website, research its maximum power requirements, then calculate the total demand manually. And the only PSU calculator good enough is the eXtreme OuterVision Power Supply Calculator. This is because it is extremely comprehensive and flexible and they have a full time staff of researchers doing the work for us.

As seen here, you could get by with a quality 500W supply. So if me, I would go with a quality 550W "Gold" or maybe up to 650W if I thought I might upgrade the hardware over the next couple years. You can go 750W or higher - it won't hurt anything, except maybe your budget.

Note that all calculators pad the results - the last thing they they want to do is recommend an underpowered supply. But the OuterVision calculator can be and is the most conservative because it is the most comprehensive and flexible. However, I did add some extra padding by bumping up the CPU utilization to 100%, I added a hard drive and an optical drive, and I included 3 x 140mm case fans. I also said you will use the computer 16 hours/day as that helps compensate for aging.

And still, your load would be under 450W.

Another reason I like the OuterVision calculator is because it recommends a UPS size too. And IMO, every computer should be supported by a good UPS with AVR - but that's for a different discussion.

Do note the 11700K just came out and is not yet listed in that calculator (I poked them so should be soon). So I used the 10700K instead and according to the Intel arks for both processors, they have the same power requirements.

A couple comments/observations. In looking at your case specs here, it appears it only comes with 2 x 120mm fans. That's disappointing. I am sure they are quality fans, but the case supports multiple 140mm fans. It is too bad they didn't put at least one in front to pull cool air in. 140mm fans move more air with less fan noise. Have I mentioned I hate fan noise?

Remember, just because one uses alternative cooling solutions for the CPU, there is still a need to ensure an adequate supply of cool air flowing through the case for all the other components inside - including the chipset and heat generating and heat sensitive devices surrounding the CPU socket.

As for your RAM, make sure the motherboard supports it. Check the motherboards QVL (qualified vendors list) on the board's website. This will be a list of memory devices the board maker has verified works with that board. There are too many RAM makers and models for board makers to test them all so you don't have to buy listed RAM but you should buy RAM with the same specs as listed RAM to ensure compatibility. That QVL (or Memory Support List) typically shows the BIOS version needed for that support. If the board has been sitting in a warehouse or store shelf for a bit after leaving the factory, it may need a BIOS update to support the latest RAM.

There typically is a CPU QVL too. So make sure the CPU you are considering is listed too. Brand new CPUs often are not - until a BIOS update is released.

 

Ok, thanks. I appreciate the information

I definitely plan on adding more fans.

I checked on the MSI website for this motherboard and it shows it does support the DDR4 3600 memory. So I'm sure this would work.

 

Well based on what I Jack said for the water cooling I decided to look up a good air cooler. So should something like this work?

 

Will it work? Yes. And I note for the money, the reviews suggest it provides very good bang for your money.

However, at that price I would not expect the best quality fan and the reviews support that. It certainly provides sufficient air flow, but I note Tweaktown, for example says,

In case I forgot to mention, I really hate fan noise.

Lower prices tend to come with shorter warranties too. ID-Cooling only offers a 2 warranty on that cooler.

While it seems to have some grey mixed in with the white, I note the ARCTIC Freezer 34 eSports DUO for $15 more offers excellent cooling with excellent noise levels along with an impressive 10 year warranty. As a nice touch, it even comes with the highly regarded MX-4 TIM (thermal interface material).

Note that review says socket support is limited but the ARCTIC webpage here says it does work with the Intel 1200.

White looks really nice - when brand new and clean. But keeping it that way can be a challenge. In fact some white components, especially if exposed to heat (or even sun - direct and indirect), may start to yellow and lose their appeal. Also, as I am sure you have already noticed, when searching for components there tends to be fewer options in white. I am not saying don't get white, just know what you are getting into.

One (okay, two) last word(s) on coolers - especially the big tall ones. First, they are tall. And many will not physically fit in some cases. Remember, motherboards sit up off the case floor on standoffs. Then the heatsink portions tend to be elevated to provide enough clearance above the motherboard components mounted around the socket. Most cases will state the maximum height cooler they will support so check the cooler specs to make sure yours will fit. You don't want to be forced to leave your case side panel off.

Also, note that motherboard designers purposely put many heat sensitive devices around the CPU socket so they to can take advantage of the "downward" firing fans found with most OEM coolers. Upright coolers don't provide that. To compensate, just make sure the case itself is providing a sufficient flow of cool air through (typically front-to-back) the case. You mentioned you were adding fans so I believe you have the covered.

One last tip. Once you have decided on your components, I recommend visiting their websites and download their manuals. This will give you a chance to read through the installation procedures and become familiar with them (especially the motherboard and PSU cable connections) while you wait for delivery. Also, you typically can download your language version only so you don't have to fumble through 30 other language versions printed in microscopic fonts in the printed manuals that come with the components. Hey - my eyes are pushing 70 so that matters.

 

Thanks for the link. I've been wondering if I should try sticking with the white/black build. Would look really nice, but like you said that color can start to fade and yellow and finding good components that color can be a challenge.

Speaking of big tall coolers I had one in the first PC I built. When it arrived it looked like a high rise office building in downtown Tokyo and I was afraid the thing would just fall off the board.I built that PC about eight or ten years ago. It was always a solid performer and I never had any issues with it. I sold it last year, but in hindsight I should have kept it.

Here are the specs for that build (it took me 3 months of researching to decide on everything):
OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit
CPU: Intel Quad Q6600 (Go-Stepping/2.4 GHz)
MOBO: Gigabyte P35-DS4 (Rev. 2)
CPU Cooling: Thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme
RAM: GSKILL DDR2 PC6400 (8 Gigs)
GPU: ASUS EN9600GSO GeForce 9600 GSO 512MB
HDD: 2 x SeaGate Barracuda SATA (250GB, 320GB)
External HD: AcomData PureDrive 500 GB USB 2.0/eSATA
Optical HD: ASUS DRW-24B1ST SATA
Power: PCP&C Silencer 610
Case: Ultra m998
Monitors: HP f1905e/KDS (both flat panels, but pretty old)
Speakers: Logitech X530

Leaning away from the white/black idea I've been looking at some different components. I still like that MSI z590 board, but I've been thinking that perhaps I should go with the Inel i7-11700 instead of the 10700 so I can take full advantage of the 11th gen features of that board. There's also the ASUS ROG STRIX Z590-E, which looks like a really nice board as well. As for the CPU cooler the Noctua NH-D15S looks like a premium option.